This method was shown to me by Captain Kevin Hunter, and devised as an effective means of wrestling big fish away from vertical structure, in our case, offshore oil and gas platforms. These are all mostly live bait applications however this hardware can be adapted to any kind of fishing method. For our purposes, here in Gulf, we are using oversized blue runners and white trout, although practically any nice live bait will do as most bottom dwelling and reef fish are neither picky nor shy.

    Our tackle consists of a sturdy, stiff pole, preferably made of solid glass. (The Penn Mariner Stand-Up is a good choice, 80-130#) We use Penn International 50s for reels and strap them with 250# Power Pro. This gives you enough backbone to win the crucial fight for the first 15 feet.

    From the Power Pro, we go to a heavy duty swivel and then to 200-400# mono leader (up to 10 feet in length, although with the heavy lines we use you can usually get away with a short leader, which is less likely to get tangled during the drop). The business end has an 11/0 or  ultimate circle hook, snelled to the leader. The weight (generally 12-24 oz. depending on depth and current) is either riding in the Power Pro, above the swivel (Carolina Style), crimped into place on the top of the monofilament leader or to an extra tag end below the crimp, or off on a tangent line, standing from a three-way swivel.

    The key to this style of fishing, is to learn to use the boat as an advantage against the fish. On any structure, you generally want to start on the up-current side, where the feeding fish are likely to be holding. Position your boat accordingly and be prepared to hold it there while a crewmember fires down the bait. (NOTE:  Be very careful to keep the Power Pro away from the props as it will make a real mess in a hurry!). Stop the bait at the shallowest depth you think the fish may be holding. Your bottom machine will help you decide. When a minute or so passes with no action, drop the bait several more seconds. Continue this process to cover the entire water column if need be.

    Once your bait is taken, make sure to allow enough time for the fish to attempt to swallow your bait…and remember, you are using a big bait so it may take a couple seconds.

    Here’s where the fight begins. As the bait is being taken, lower your rod tip to the water to make it as easy as possible on the predator and allow some slack so they don't get too suspicious. Once you have waited a few seconds to allow nature to take its course, come up sharply with the rod tip. Good communication here between the angler and the captain is crucial so that the timing is right and the boat is moving forward as the fight begins. Once you have raised your rod tip and essentially set the hook in the fish…it is most important that you don’t give an inch. Your drag should be as tight as possible and you should try to raise the fish 5 feet or so right of the bat before the boat takes off.  At this point the captain should accelerate away from the rig in a smooth motion, while the angler aims the rod at the fish or at least at the water, away from the boat. giving as little line as possible will increase your odds. Here again, be very careful to keep the line away from the prop since it will cut you off immediately, and that is the best case scenario as anyone who has lost a lower unit seal knows. That line will eat if given the chance.

    Once you have made the move a hundred feet or so away from the structure, turn into the fish and back off the drag slightly and allow the angler to go to work.

The keys to success here are:

    Also, realize that the first bait, is usually the one that will fool the biggest fish. Once you break a fish off or put one in the boat...the trophy fish will usually wise-up. This is especially true with amberjack and big grouper. Snapper are more likely to feed in a frenzy.